Shimla Special

The fact that I would be leaving Gurgaon permanently in a few weeks-time urged me to go on a sight-seeing spree in north India. The spree, to my disappointment, was limited only to Shimla and Chandigarh. The thought struck me on March 9 and the initial plan was to go on the Shimla trip on March 11-12. Thanks to the Indian railways' weird practice of not allowing booking of e-tickets (for the less up-to-date ones: e-ticket means booking of railway ticket on the Internet and having the print-out of the e-ticket and a photo-ID in the place of the normal 6" x 4" ticket) after 2300 hrs. I could not comprehend the rationale behind such a restriction. We tried for tatkal tickets, but none were available.

Next week, I collected information about the prospective places to visit in Shimla and in Chandigarh. No one gave a positive comment about the two places. One commented about Shimla, "Anga onnume illa, ooty ellaam evvalavo betteru", another one who was born and brought up in Chandigarh, "Maine Shimla ek bhi baar nahin gaya, kuch bhi nahin hoga wahaan. Chandigarhme tho do theen hi jagah hai". I wondered whether my plan of going to Shimla would serve any purpose. I always believed beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. I went ahead and booked two return tickets from Chandigarh for March 19. The one who accompanied is definitely not a girl (though I wished he was) - my roomie here in Gurgaon.

On Friday, March 17, we started from our office to Kapashera border. It is one of the many boundaries between Gurgaon and Delhi. We reached there by a share auto. I always liked this concept of sharing. It is the only means of public transport in Gurgaon. It is quite strange that the real estate prices in Gurgaon might even be greater than in Bangalore, all sorts of infrastructural developments are happening but the city does not have a single source of public transport other than share autos. Venkat and I were facing each other and there was hardly a foot gap between us but we could not hear each other, thanks to the dolby effect of Piaggio engine dotted with cries from Red FM.

I hoped there was a bus stand, but the buses stood almost everywhere - even in the middle of the road with its engine turned off and a sardar driver desperately trying to turn it on. Managing to escape from vehicles speeding from all directions, we rambled in search of bus route #729. We spotted one caught in the middle of the road. This may just be another Murphy's law, "Whenever you are going in a bike, you see the bus to be half-empty, whenever you want to board it, you hardly would fine a square feet of space". Once we boarded it, another Murphy's law was dawned. "Whenever you board a crowded bus, do not look through the rear-view mirror, lest you would find another bus (same route) half empty and the same would overtake you at the next stop". In fact, the same happened.

For the 10 rupee ticket, the 729 serpentined through Delhi and reached the Kashmere gate (I am not sure whether kashmere is a form of kashmir or a tweak of 'mere' cash) ISBT. ISBT is short for Inter-State Bus Terminus and not a name of a private B-School. In fact, ICFAI lies in the route betweeen our office and Kapashera. The bus dropped us ISBT around 2030 hrs. After a few enquires here and there, we reached the bus station. The bus station was quite big and we were searching for the Shimla bound buses. We got there and got disappointed when we could not see a single deluxe bus. When we were just sighing at the metro flying nearby, a volvo bus bound for Shimla was making its way into the bus adda. Hurriedly we got the tickets and with tons of pride got in. Volvo is a class apart. In addition to almost 153.5 degree (I got good scores in XAT) push-back, it was also having a leg support (I hope you got it right). Flying high (literally as well, our seat numbers were 27 and 28 and were at least 1 metre above the overtaken normal buses), I listened to some music and tried desperately (and pathetically acted) to sleep. We were hungry as we did not have any thing for dinner.

We were eagerly waiting for the bus to stop at a motel so that me and my motu friend could swallow some thing. Within half an hour of the start of the journey, Venkat slept. I wish I could also sleep in a moving vehicle. To add to my woes, a movie "kya kool hai hum" was played. I wanted to say "kya dumb hai tum" to the director/producer of the movie. Absolute non-sense of a movie. After feigning sleep for some time, I really did after some time. Just when I was deep into my sleep, the bus reached a motel and a 'pa pa pa pa pam" was blown. The place was just too good for a motel, we ate two samosas each. My rating of the motel sky-rocketed once I entered the toilet. It was the best toilet I have ever seen and been in. Back in the bus and peeking through the curtains we saw some of the latest and expensive cars parked there and the dreams about I would have it one day cropped up. While we were having our samosas, my mind was pre-occupied with any sound that came from outside fearing the bus would leave us and go. A similar incident happened with my friend in FSS who went to Goa during December, which added seasonings to my fear. When we finished our samosas and went outside, I was happy to see the bus in the parking area. We waited for about an hour for the bus to start. Some idiot (probably the driver) was having his dinner for all that time.

We reached Chandigarh around 0200 and Kalka around 0300. Kalka would be the alighting point for train passengers willing to go to Shimla, Kulu, Manali. I struggled with my efforts to have my eyes shut, but as we ascended the hills, my ears got shut. I tried all sorts of tricks to have my body pressure maintained. We reached Shimla around 0545. When I got out of the bus, I did not feel the chillness, but once I spilled some water on my hands, I realised why winter is so piercing in north India. Four-five people were urging us to come to their hotels, but of the few things planned, we had already booked a room in Blue Diamond hotel. We hired one of the beseeching (rather terrorising) taxi drivers and reached Blue diamond. The drive was hardly for 5 minutes should have been only Rs.20 but we had agreed for Rs.80 before getting on the cab. We understood the essence of the 'Athithi dhevo bhavah' initiative of Indian Tourism department. On reaching the hotel, we were bowled over by the paternal affection showered....

The hotel owner's name is Sathish. He looked verisimilar to Lalu prasad yadav, uttering the word 'Beta' after every four words. I have heard about 'beta-testing' but this was a 'beta-detesting'. On entering we asked about the usual time of breakfast. 9'0 clock the reply came in a flash. I thought why are shimlaites so lazy. On entering the bathroom, I realized why they start the day at 0900. It was piercingly cold inside the bed room as well. Through the window, we could see some snow-clad peaks, it was a sight to cherish. But the chillness was so pronounced I had no option but to get under the quilt. When I woke up it was aroung 0900, Venkat had already taken bath and ordered the breakfast. After a hurried bath, we had 3 paranthas and some dahi. The taxi driver who swindled Rs.80 for a 10 minute journey agreed for Rs.350 for the entire day. We left BD to have a first hand feel of the capital hill station.

The first point we were shown was the Green Valley. True to its name, there were hell a lot of trees, each of the height of Mount road LIC building, and absolutely vertical. The entire region was lush green. On the opposite side, we could see the snow-topped mountains which were like cone ice creams. I could not even think of ice creams in the cold. We were told the valley would be green all through the year. Nature at her best.

We had some good natured chat with the swindler - taxi driver. He told we were lucky because it snowed in Kufri just on the Holi day (Mar 15), so that we can have a feel of 'fresh' snow. I thought we would be going to the snow topped mountains and could sing 'Apple pennae nee yaaro, ice cream silaiye nee yaaro'. The driver then showed the Medical college building which more than a medical school was an architectural wonder. It was awesome to see such a big building in the mountains. I suddenly had doubts about the access to drinking water. The driver explained the water would be pumped from the valley. Pumped to a height of 2500m, I was stumped.

The next stop was for Kufri. Kufri is the place which hosts the Annual Winter Sports Festival. It was once a part of the Kingdom of Nepal and remained obscure from the rest of the world till the British discovered it in 1819. To this date, I wonder how people have laid roads in such extreme locations. I appreciated the potential of man's brilliance and creativity for the second time in my life. (The first was when I flew for the first time between Delhi and Chennai in a Air Deccan Airbus A-320). To reach the hill top, the only means of transport is a horse-ride, huh hmm, a mule-ride rather. This is easily the best part of our 2-day trip.

There were two horses (I like to call them horses), one was strongly built and the other relatively weak. Venkat was asked to mount the stronger one and I mounted the other. This is the first time I am in such close contact with animal of any sort. If in any standard V question paper, some one asks the opposite of Maneka Gandhi, students can write my name as answer. There is no creature in the world, other than human beings, I do not dislike. I was having my heart in my mouth. The first stretch was a steep incline with the ground being in such a state, any man would be inspired to become a potter. I would have looked like a person who is about to break his struggle of constipation.

With some prayers to Lord Muruga (Kaakka kaakka kanagavel kaakka...), I broke my silence and asked the horse-paagan's name. "Class" came the reply. What a nice name, " thought. Venkat got curious and probably could not believe the name. "Phir se boliye", he said. After few exchanges, we understood the name was "Kailash". Then we asked the names of the horses. Venkat's was 'Veeru' and mine was 'Basanti'. I compared how Aamir Khan rode the horse in Rang de 'Basanti' and how I was riding the real life 'Basanti'. I fared better - height of conceit.

After some distance, I became sure that whatever happens Basanti will not fall and "Class" would not let me fall off Basanti. I grew in confidence and joined the discussion between Venkat and Class. As the banter went on, we were shocked to hear a tamil word from Class. He had worked in Tiruppur for some time before coming to Kufri. Mera Bharat Mahaan. He was all praise for the people of Tamil (he thought the name of the state is Tamil and not Tamilnadu). May be he was trying to gain some brownie points. We also got to know that Veeru and Basanti are husband and wife, true to their nuptial bondage, Basanti was blindly following Veeru. Veeru was intelligent to find the best and the correct path towards our destination (there is only one there) and Basanti religiously followed. I wondered how good it would be if humans also respect the marital relationship in the same way.

I was rather depressed that I was given a 'female' horse. But consoled myself that Venkat could not get even a horse which is female. Bad joke, I know. But it made me happy. At about 250m, we reached the Shooting point. There was a small pond and some Yaks. We did not stop there and proceeded towards the hill top. I had become confident about the ride and was instructing Basanti to go in some direction, "Idhar nahin, is side me jao", "deere se", "Go Veeru go". Then we alighted at the Go karting station.

It is the highest Go-karting place in the world, or so they claimed. We bought the tickets for Rs.150 each, posed for some photographs and entered. Class was a class apart, he was conversant with the operations of a Canon Digital Camera. I started to admire this guy. Once inside, we had some coffee and were forced to go into a Ladakh co-operative society shop. We were explained about one blanket (or some complicated name), its price is Rs.6600 and along with it they would give us an undertaking and one carpet, one set of bed spreads and pillowcovers, two shawls, one quilt. The undertaking is that they would take back the blanket after 5 years for Rs.9900. Hold on, Rs.6600 is the offer price after discount of 50% from the list price of Rs.13200. When we return the blanket they would give the 75% of the list price. We need not give the freebies offered. I could not understand the business model and we slowly sneaked out of the shop with stale apologies. Got bowled over when Class talked about VPP and post-paid cheques.

We had an espresso and had a race of 5 lap (we were allowed to take 5 laps only). Got back to our horses and proceeded towards the hill top which supposedly has a kali temple. After a ride of about 45 minutes, Basanti and Veeru took us to the hill top. We had to climb about 1000 steps (or equivalent of that) to reach the temple. I wondered why these Gods go on top of the mountain almost every where. I do not know of a single mountain top which does not have a temple. The paidal towards the top was as intriguing as the horse ride. We took lot of snaps with our Canon.

Once at the peak, I understood why Gods choose mountain peaks. No words were uttered, I felt, "there must be God". Beauty is a form of genius. It is indeed better than genius as it needs no explanation.

After the darshan of Kali and Shiva, we had to accompany a family of four. The father of two small cute kids requested us to accompany because of the simian scare. On our way down, Venkat made some funny gestures to the smaller of the kids and within 15 minutes we reached our horses and Class. We began our return journey. Our return journey was as interesting the onward one. At one point of time, two insane people were riding the horses at full speed. I was scared what would happen if those speeding horses hit my Basanti, but out of nowhere a horse bit Veeru. Class remarked, "Usne pappi maara" (the other horse kissed Veeru). Strange way of kissing. Lucky for the Bollywood heroines, Emraan Hashmi did not see this.

On completion of our adventurous mule-ride, we gave Class a 50-rupee note and went towards our taxi. We then started back towards Shimla and were heading to have lunch at some sastha place. After lunch we mounted the Yaks and posed for photographs. Then we went to Helipad. The view here was better than that of the Kufri peak. Some stunning views, I should say. We began clicking as much as we can. Just like the recent bull run, which would make an ordinary investor feel like Warren Buffett, the sheer beauty made me feel I am P.C.Sreeram.

In our photo-shooting spree, I shot Venkat but in the background a Maruti was there. After two minutes, the Maruti left its place and its youthful driver showered some abuses on us while on the move. We realized the guy would have been accompanied by a gal inside the car. I was deep in romance with the nature and I cared little about the guy fleeing away. Indifference is the worst punishment one can give.

Our next stop was ‘The mall road’. Since automobiles are not allowed there, the taxi dropped us at one point and we had to climb some 1000 steps to get to the Mall road. Once we were there, I realized that the effort put in were not in vain, it was a well-maintained road, just a perfect place for sight-seeing and having fun.

It was a mélange of sorts where there are tour operators trying to lure any one with a camera, young couples, probably, in their honey moon, small kids in excursion, and some vagabonds like us. There was small kid, hardly 3-4 years, riding on a horse, a drunkard staggering away and after 5 minutes going in the opposite direction mounted in a horse. We reached the ridge, which is an elevated structure from which we can have a look at the Mall Road and the beautiful sun-set. With the sun going down the horizon, we also descended and headed towards our hotel.

It was indeed a day to cherish. I realized how true the proverb, “Beauty lies in the eyes of beholder”, is.